ASHWORTH&VANEBespoke Tailors · Est. 1948
← The Collection

Shown in Moss Donegal — one of 2 recommended lengths

Double-breasted, six on three, full skirt

The Ulster Overcoat

From

£3,960

Lead time

14–16 weeks

Fittings

3

Overcoats are cut from a separate block with 70mm more room across the shoulder blades. A coat cut from a suit block looks correct in the mirror and splits at the back when you put your arms out.

We use a 22 to 28oz cloth — heavier than most houses now cut — because the weight is what makes a coat hang straight rather than flutter.

The Ulster collar can be worn flat or turned up and buttoned across the throat, in which case a hidden throat latch holds it.

Commission this cut

Specification

The house standard for this cut. Every line of it can be changed at the specification sitting.

Cloth weight
22–28oz Donegal, Shetland or covert
Front
Double-breasted, six buttons, three fastening
Length
Mid-calf, adjusted to your height at fitting two
Collar
Ulster, with hidden throat latch
Pockets
Flapped patch, plus an inside poacher pocket
Lining
Full, quilted body panel for winter

From the cutter

Come to the first fitting wearing the heaviest jacket you own. The coat is cut over what you actually wear under it, not over a shirt.

Cloths we would suggest

Full book

Moss Donegal

Kilbarron Weavers, Co. Donegal · 24oz

Handwoven, with rust, ochre and oxblood flecks thrown through the ground. No two lengths are alike; we keep the batch number in your file.

Fawn Covert

Ravenshaw & Daughters, Huddersfield · 22oz

A dense steep twill built for weather. Traditionally finished with four rows of stitching at the cuff and hem, and we still do it.

Next cut

The Country Odd Jacket