Shown in Navy Chalk Stripe — one of 3 recommended lengths
Six-button waistcoat, higher gorge, closer skirt
The Vane Three-Piece
From
£3,420
Lead time
12–14 weeks
Fittings
3
Named for Eleanor Vane, who ran the cutting room from 1963 to 1994 and insisted that a three-piece fails at the back, not the front. Our waistcoat therefore has a shaped back in cloth rather than lining, with a buckled strap set low.
The jacket differs from the Wickham in three places: the gorge is raised 12mm, the skirt is cut closer over the hip, and the front is quarter-lined so the waistcoat carries the weight instead.
Ordered most often in a chalk stripe or a dark birdseye. It photographs formally, which clients in front of cameras tend to want.
Specification
The house standard for this cut. Every line of it can be changed at the specification sitting.
- Waistcoat
- Six button, five fastening, cloth back with strap
- Gorge
- Raised 12mm above house standard
- Jacket vents
- Double, 24cm
- Trouser
- Two forward pleats, fishtail back, brace buttons
- Pockets
- Jetted, with a ticket pocket as standard
- Buttons
- Horn, cut and matched to the cloth by hand
From the cutter
A three-piece wants braces, not a belt. If you have never worn them, we fit a pair at the second fitting and you can decide after a week of it.
Cloths we would suggest
Full bookNavy Chalk Stripe
Glenrothie Mill, Selkirk · 12oz
A soft-edged chalk line at 22mm spacing. Stripes must be matched across the pocket and the shoulder seam, which adds four hours to the make.
Slate Birdseye
Ravenshaw & Daughters, Huddersfield · 11.5oz
A fine white pindot on slate. Hides creasing better than any plain weave we stock and takes a press beautifully.
Mid-Grey Flannel
Bramwell & Sons, Stroud · 14oz
Milled soft and brushed. The cloth that makes a plain grey suit interesting. Bruises if pressed hot, so we finish it under a damp cloth.
Next cut
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